Click Here To Jump to Hearthstone Maintenance Tip Part Two.

Part One
Pavement Maintenance Snake Oil or Salvation
Hearthstone Property Group, LLC
625 Beesley Road
Murfreesboro, TN 37128
615.890.4651 • FAX: 615.848.1581
Email: hearthstone@comcast.net
www.hearthstone.net

We change the oil in our cars, go to the dentist regularly, and even rotate the air filter in our homes. Maintenance seems to make sense in other areas, but we just never think about what to do for our asphalt pavement.

However, knowing what to do can save thousands of dollars in the long run.

There are three common types of pavement maintenance—and one not-so-common:
Common Pavement Maintenance:
Pothole repair
Crack filling, and
Surface Treatment.


Not-So-Common Pavement Maintenance:
Keeping grass off the pavement edge

To know when and whether or not to use any of these, you must first understand a little about the type of problems pavements have.

The Most Common Pavement Problems

Alligator or fatigue cracking
Too much or too heavy traffic on pavement causes it to pull apart. The result is fatigue or alligator cracking, similar to the photo at right. The pattern is like alligator skin or chicken wire fencing. This type of failure is caused due to a lack of enough asphalt and rock base for the loads in service. There is no effective solution for this other than to replace the damaged pavement with a new section built to withstand the loading. Special loading situations—commonly found around dumpsters—may require a concrete pad for adequate foundation strength. If left alone, water will seep through the cracks, undermine the base and soil underneath the problem area, and continue to get worse, eventually making a good-sized pothole.

Block cracking/Shrinkage cracks
Cracks in this type of pattern usually intersect each other at nearly right angles—large ‘blocks.’ The pattern may start out at a 20 foot spacing, but over time advances to a much smaller spacing, perhaps as small as 1 foot. This is due to weathering of the pavement—where it hardens over several years.

Longitudinal and Transverse Cracks
Cracks that occur along the construction joints, and at right angles to these joints. The joints are the weakest point of any asphalt pavement, and here’s where the cracks normally appear first.

Fuel spills
Petroleum products may leak from cars, especially older ones. In a parking lot, the spillage area is generally in a 3-foot by 3-foot section of the parking stall. The petroleum product -- gasoline, motor oil, antifreeze, etc. -- penetrates the asphalt, softens and weakens it. There are four simple but effective actions you can take to help assure longer life and service from your pavement.

These are:
Clean and seal cracks as they occur;
Keep grass off pavement edges,
Repair Potholes as they occur;
Use a surface treatment every 5-7 years.

1. Crack cleaning and sealing.
Unfilled cracks tend to get worse over time, allowing more water, grass, dirt and debris to enter. Water will eventually erode the subgrade material, leading to a localized pavement failure – a ‘pothole.’ Dirt and debris will aid in breaking down the edges of the cracks over the expansion and contraction cycles through temperature extremes.

Here’s a simple procedure for crack repair.

1. Remove grass and surface dirt/debris from cracks with a weed-eater and hand-held power blower. An edger may be used on larger cracks with care, or they may need to be routed.

2. Apply a weed-killer and soil sterilant to the crack to retard the growth of any vegetation. This is readily available from local farm and garden supply stores, and can be applied with a small hand-pump garden sprayer.

3. When the cracks are clean, apply a crack filler material and strike-off flush to the pavement surface with a squeegee. (Dow Corning 890- SL is an easy-to-use cold-pour product.Commercial-grade hot-placed products may also be used, but are generally cost-effective only for larger applications.) Cure as per the manufacturer’s instructions.

Aside from drainage improvements, crack cleaning and filling is probably the most important maintenance item that you can perform.

2. Remove grass from pavement shoulders.
Oftentimes grass is allowed to grow over the edge of a pavement. This hurts the pavement structure in two ways: first, the grass will break the pavement by expanding the cracks; second, the grass will slow down water as it drains off the pavement surface, often causing water to stand near the pavement edge. Poor drainage is probably the most destructive element facing most pavements.

To help this situation, use a small tractor with a blade or other similar piece of equipment to remove grass from the pavement edges. Assure that there is a small ‘lip’ around the edge of the pavement that allows water to drain away from the area. This lip should be no greater than 1.5 inches deep. Maintain this not less than bi-monthly,
and more often during high-growth seasons.

3. Pothole Repair Potholes only get worse over time. There are two general approaches to pothole repair: cold patch and hot mix full-depth.

Cold-patch repairs use a variety of commercial products that are placed loosely in a pothole, usually mounded, then hand tamped and allowed to final compaction by traffic. Cold patch materials will do for short-term repair, however they are not usually considered viable long-term solutions because they do not address the root problem: what caused the pothole in the first place?

Full-depth hot mix repair begins usually with a saw-cut 12 inches beyond the damaged area on all sides, and removal of all material down to solid dirt below the pothole. The area is allowed to dry, then is built back up to the required grade with an adequate base course (small rocks) topped with the new hot-mix asphalt, properly placed and compacted. By removing the soft subgrade, and by placing an adequate layer of small rocks (base course) the problem that caused the pothole in the first place is usually corrected so that it does not recur. A full depth repair should always be used prior to placing a new overlay.

Next Issue: Surface Treatments and How to Choose the Right Contractor.



Part Two
Pavement Maintenance Snake Oil or Salvation

Last issue we showed the most common pavement problems and 3 simple maintenance procedures for solving them. They were:
1. Crack Cleaning and Sealing
2. Keeping the grass off pavement edges
3. Pothole Repair


In part two we’ll get into touchier subjects: Surface Treatments and How To Choose the Right Contractor.

4. Surface Treatments
There are many different types of surface treatments:

Coal tar or emulsion type sealers are common. These work like paint on wood in that they lay on top of the asphalt to keep out sun and water. They are usually preferred for areas needing fuel resistance.

Rejuvenating or penetrating sealers to modify or improve the characteristics of the upper portion of the asphalt surface. These work like stain on a wood surface—they soak in and replace oils lost due to weathering. They can be more cost-effective than coal tar or emulsion sealers, but are also more difficult to apply.

Slurry seals, which are thicker versions of emulsion sealers.

Proprietary surface treatments -- a blend of one or more of the above families of treatments.

a thin, hot mix asphalt overlay.

Specific things to consider when deciding on the use of a surface treatment include:

Crack filling before or after the treatment (cracks less than 1/8 inch will usually be filled by an emulsion, but not a rejuvenator. For larger cracks, fill them before placing an emulsion, but after placing a rejuvenator.)

Special treatment of areas with fuel spills (Any fuel spill areas should be cleaned, or possibly patched, and coated with a shellac-type material. Suppliers should have both cleaners and coating materials readily available. Always buy a quality proven brand.)

The amount of sand used in the sealer material is another important decision. The more porous or raveled the surface, the higher the sand content should be. Also, if the pavement has a relatively steep surface slope, higher sand content should be considered to provide more traction in wet weather.

How many coats of sealer should be applied? Generally, if the pavement has never been sealed, you probably want to use two coats. If the pavement has been sealed within the last five-seven years, one coat might be sufficient. If two coats are used, the first coat generally has a higher amount of sand than the second coat. New pavements should not be sealed within the first 60 days to allow the asphalt to properly cure.

Sealers can be applied by one of two methods -- spray or squeegee. The best application is normally using a squeegee on the first coat and a spray on the second coat if you can do it.

Because of the mechanical and chemical drying process of the sealer material, it is important to remember the following: If it doesn't dry and cure within the first few hours of application, it may never thoroughly cure out. What does this mean? Two thin coats may be better than an extremely heavy coat. Low temperature and/or high humidity days slow down curing.

If you can, schedule your operations to avoid sealing shaded areas in the afternoon. Try to do them in the morning so they have more daylight hours to cure out.

Sealing on cool fall days can lead to curing problems. Some additives decrease curing time. Sealing on a hot sunny day may lead to premature setup and a proper cure will not take place.

Don't seal new asphalt; it is like painting wet lumber -- it won't stick. And be sure to follow manufacturer recommendations. Poor quality product and mediocre application technique lead to major problems.

Payback: Studies have shown that pavement maintenance can add up to 10 years of life to a properly-designed pavement before an overlay is required—up to a 50% increase in the life expectancy of your pavement.

How to hire the right contractor

(Tips from the National Pavement Contractors Association and The Asphalt Institute)

Select a contractor known for high-quality work and that has an established reputation in the community.

Verify the contractor's insurance coverage (and licensing if required in your state)

Use specification guidelines to help prepare yourself as an educated consumer. Get these from the Asphalt Institute at
www.asphaltinstitute.org or from the National Pavement Contractors Association at www.pavementpro.org.

If you obtain proposals from more than one contractor, ensure that all are bidding on the same type of mix and construction. In order that true and valid comparisons can be made, all proposals should cover the same quantities.

When discussing a paving overlay project, be sure that the thickness agreed upon is finished compacted thickness.

Visit pavement projects by the prospective contractor(s) and talk with the owners of the projects.

Insist on a written contract or agreement, in addition to any guarantee offered by the contractor.

Whether you verify references or not, make provision to retain some portion of the payment due the contractor until there is complete satisfaction with the quality of the finished surface. It is customary for payment for smaller projects to be due "upon completion". However retaining a portion of final payment for 15-30 days is acceptable especially if a contractor can't provide references of his reputation for quality.

Additional Resources:

Asphalt in Pavement Maintenance, (MS-16), Asphalt Institute, Research Park Drive, P. O. Box 14052, Lexington, KY 40512-4052 Phone 606-288-4960 FAX 606-288-4999 www.asphaltinstitute.org

Pavement, a free publication for maintenance managers, this magazine promotes paving products and equipment. Contact Cygnus Publishing, Inc., attn: Allan Heydorn, 1233 Janesville Ave, P. O. Box 803, Fort Atkinson, WI, 53538-0803
Phone 800-547 7377 FAX 920-563-1699 National Pavement Contractors Association, PO Box 57 Mineral Wells, Texas, 76068, Phone 940-327-8041, FAX 940-325-2413,www.pavementpro.org.

Hearthstone Property Group, LLC
625 Beesley Road
Murfreesboro, TN 37128
Emergency Hotline: 615.890.4651
FAX: 615.848.1581
Email: hearthstone@comcast.net
www.hearthstone.net